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Most pets are able to respond better when an auditory command is paired with a hand signal. Use the laser pointer pointed at the ground (not at the dogs face/eyes) and have the dog follow it as a come when called tool.Teaching your dog hand signals is a great way to improve your communication with your pet. This needs to be used carefully so generally should not be operated by young children, and should be used solely as a come when called tool, and not turned into a game (some breeds may develop OCD tendencies). I have also used and recommend using a laser pointer as a come when called tool for deaf dogs. The older collars were not water proof and had very limited range, the newer collars do not have these design flaws.Īlso I recommend paying your dog for focus and attention whenever they check in with you – especially when in higher distraction environments (front yard, park, vet clinic, walks etc). Not everyone in the household had a remote at same time.
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They are expensive (when I bought my first one >10 years ago, it was $400, the current collar was $300 for a "BigLeash Vibration Remote Dog Training Collar" in 2016). However these collars can have drawbacks too, so you don’t want to rely solely on them. It has to be done in a controlled and slow manner so that your dog doesn’t find the experience scary or uncomfortable. The buzz is used in place of the dogs name. Zac had one of these and Arthur currently uses one. We conditioned the collar so that they feel the buzz, if they look at us they get a reward. The collars are designed to just lightly vibrate on the dogs neck (don’t worry I tried it on my own neck first). They can be hard to come by, however you can also purchase vibration collars (these don’t zap or spray). For Zac, we used rolled up socks and threw them past him (not at him) and then paid him with reward every time he looked at us. If they are a great distance, wave your arms. They are often more sensitive to vibrations, so you could try stamping your feet. There are several ways you can get their attention. When approach, stomp your feet, or pop a scented toy in front of their nose, or a tasty treat to wake them up.Įnsure everyone in the family (especially the kids) are educated regarding this. Deaf dogs are more likely to startle and they may bite in fright. The last thing you want to do is startle a sleeping dog. We also ensured that he wasn’t allowed off lead unless the area was securely fenced. He knew the verbal cues, however he had no idea about the hand signals. Unfortunately I never thought to test them individually.
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Previously I had trained him, on what I thought were both verbal and hand signals. We made adjustments and changes to our lifestyle and his, and he went on to live a very happy life. This worked in that the infection was immediately under control and removed, however, it did result in instant deafness for him.īut that wasn’t the end of the world. The last option for treatment was to radically remove his ear canal and all surrounding tissue.
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We tried various treatments and antibiotics, however the bacteria was multi drug resistant and the infection progressed to the point that he now had it in the skull bone near the ears. The infection traveled up his eustachian tubes and into his middle ears. We didn’t think too much of it, and apart from restricting his access we just avoided the post munch lawn grub kiss.Īnyhow, long story short, Zac, picked up a resistant bacterial infection from the lawn grubs. I honestly have no idea why or how it started, but it did. My old boy Zac was a beautiful beagle, however he developed a tendency to dig up and eat lawn grubs. I can relate to the difficulties experienced in owning a deaf dog. What experience do I have with deaf dogs?